TEA PT. 3 - CATEGORIES
White Tea is the least oxidized of all tea types - in fact, it goes through no oxidization at all. White tea is picked early in the season when the leaves are young and full of sugars and energy, and only the bud and at most two leaves is picked. Buds-only pickings are called silver needles, while a bud and two leaves is called peony. White teas are delicate and sweet and can often fetch very high prices on the market. Much white tea is consumed within China itself.
Green Tea is the most widely consumed tea in East Asia and is also thought to be the first consumed, originally powdered as medicine. Green tea is only slightly oxidized, prepared with the application of heat to denature the oxidizing enzymes. This is known as “killing the green,” and it is why the tea maintains its vibrant color. This heat can be applied via steam (Japan), pan-frying, tumble-drying, sun-drying, or even oven-baking. Steamed green teas typically develop the savory, umami flavor so highly prized in Japanese green teas; baked green teas will acquire more toasted or floral characteristics. Leaves are shaped after drying to facilitate brewing. Most sought after green teas are “first flush,” that is, the first picking in the early springtime.
Japanese Green Tea is almost a type of tea all its own. They’re quite distinct from green teas grown in other parts of the world, and are known for their vivid green color, bittersweet flavor, and strong umami characteristics. Though tea is not native to Japan, by the mid 18th century, steam-drying techniques have set it apart from mainland tea production, leading to the unique flavors that compliment Japanese flavor preferences and foods. Gyokuro, a sought after type of Japanese green tea, is shaded for the last few weeks of its growth, up to 90%. This leads to the overproduction of chlorophyl and the L-theanine amino acid - both of which are responsible for the savory flavors of Japanese tea. Only the tender leaves produced under this shade covering are used. Matcha is similarly made only from tencha - a type of tea shaded for the last 3-5 weeks of its first flush growth period. Only the first flush teas are used to make matcha, which is then de-stemmed and stone ground. Matcha is unique among tea in that you consume the entire leaf as the powder is whisked into water using specialized tools.
Oolong Tea is oxidized, but not fully - anywhere from 5-10% to 60% and higher. Oolong teas are thought of as a highly artisanal product with the tea master in control of all aspects of the processing. Cultivar is also very important to oolong production. Practically speaking, these factors mean there is a great deal of variety in oolong tea. Oolongs are briefly withered in the sun before being brought indoors and further oxidized with frequent shaking to help remove moisture. The tea master will decide when enough oxidization has occurred. Some oolongs are then roasted or baked to further develop flavors, often over charcoal. Dust must be frequently removed so that none catches fire and introduces smokey flavors. Expect oolongs to taste drastically different depending on the tea, from fruity, floral, and buttery to malty, raisiny, and sweet.
Black Tea is fully oxidized. It is also the most widely travelled of all tea types, being widely consumed around the world - especially in the UK. Outside of Asia it is frequently taken with milk and sugar. Green tea originally could not survive the long journey by boat to England or over land to Russia, so fully oxidized black teas were used. Black teas are rolled and bruised and then placed shallow piles to encourage oxidization. Carefully controlled temperature and humidity will help to develop desirable flavors. Black teas contain a lot of tannic flavors and hold up well to milk. However, delicate notes of wintergreen and licorice may also be present in high quality black teas.
Pu’er Tea is one of the oldest types of tea, dating back at least 2,000 years to the Yunnan province in southwestern China. Until recently, all tea in Yunnan was grown from seed rather than grafted cuttings, so a great deal of genetic diversity exists in pu’er teas. It is made specifically from a sun-dried variety of tea called saiqing maocha. After withering, drying, and rolling by hand - pu’ers are left to sun dry. This reactivates enzymatic activity very slowly, allowing pu’er tea to slowly oxidize with age. Sheng pu’ers are packed into cakes and dried in a sauna-like room. Shu pu’ers are fermented in a large pile with a bit of old shu added to start the process. They are turned every day for 80-120 days and are then packed into cakes. Shu pu’ers are usually aged before consumption and both types can be aged and tasted in different vintages, much like wine. They are seen as collectors items in some circles. Pu’ers develop rich earthy flavors and a malty sweetness, undercut with light fermentation flavors and grassiness.
Tea is a vast, ancient, and complex world worthy of exploration. Just like with coffee, taste every tea you can get your hands on and get “tea drunk.”